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          San Gabriel Valley
                                   
Orchid Hobbyists, Inc.

 

 

 

 

Society News

Are you interested in receiving the Bulletin by email INSTEAD of by ‘snail mail’?  If so, please email Jim Gomes at jim.gomes@att.net.  When I receive your email, I will no longer send a copy through the mail, but send a copy directly to your email address.  That way you will have fewer papers to throw away.

Membership Message

WELCOME

 We had 23 members and 1 guest in attendance at our October meeting.

Well it looks like Fall is finally on its way. The fall blooming cattleya’s are starting to put on a show a little earlier than usual because of the hot weather we’ve had recently. 

One of our members, Una Yeh did very well at the Huntington Show last weekend winning Best Lealia, and Best Oncidium of the show. Congratulations on your wins Una!

Our November meeting is our Awards Banquet, so we hope to see you all there. 

Greg Orozco
President

In Need of Officers and Directors

The Board of Directors would like to thank all of our members for their continued support.  2018 is a new year and we need a full slate of officers.  All positions need to be filled to run the society in an organized manner. Next year we would like to plan activities & tours but without great leadership and pre-planning these chores fall short. Talk to a board member if you have any questions. Please help our Society by Volunteering!!

October Pictures

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Leaftip Burn - AOS

Question

I’ve noticed the tips of the leaves of some of my orchids are brown, and guessed it was due to over-fertilizing. This morning, I discovered two small (not tiny) brown spots on a dendrobium leaf. The cane has at least seven to eight leaves, and the spotted one is top-most. By looking at the back of the leaf, I found the center of the brown spots became thinner than the leaf. Are the spots an indication of sunburn or fungus? I have the orchid at an east window, so it shouldn’t be receiving too much sun. — Elizabeth Hsu

Answer

The leaf-tip burn you describe is not unusual in orchids grown in the home or under very dry conditions, nor is it necessarily indicative of over-fertilizing, but rather of salt-related damage. This occurs when the salt concentration in the soil solution reaches a certain critical point, either through accumulation by over-dry conditions, or by the excess application of fertilizer. Keeping the plants more evenly moist, and flushing thoroughly with clean water can also help to reduce this sort of injury to orchids. I doubt that the symptom you describe on the top leaf is fungus, and even if it is, it sounds like a type that is the result of a secondary infection that is rarely more than a cosmetic problem. Unusually cold water can bruise the softer tissue of a developing leaf, making it susceptible to infection in the same way that a cut on your hand is liable to be infected. The infection usually stops on its own, leaving the type of lesion you describe. — Ned Nash
 

Epsom Salts - AOS

Question

I have recently learned that Epsom salts work well for getting phalaenopsis to bloom. My questions are:

Does this work for all orchids? If not, which ones should get it, which ones definitely should not get it? How often do I apply Epsom salts? I've read everything from monthly to twice a year. How much do I apply? What does the Epsom salts do? Is magnesium not sufficiently present in fertilizer? So why is the boost from salts particularly important? — Tania Self

 

Answer

You will not read much on this topic in regard to orchids for there has been little research done. As so often is the case, the myths and misinformation get spread widely, often by people selling something. However, this much is true: Magnesium is an essential element in orchid nutrition. In Europe, fertilizer formulas are often expressed as N-P-K-Mg, indicating that it is considered as a macroelement rather than a micronutrient. It can be made available to orchids in many forms. Potting mixes will often contain dolomitic lime for a slow-release source. Growers either top-dress with magnesium sulphate in the spring or they apply it dissolved in water in the autumn as a stand-alone application at 1tbs per gallon. Sophisticated growers will usually add magnesium in a chelated form to their liquid-fertilizer solutions. Plant need can be gauged by tissue analysis but this is probably more complex than most hobby growers can be bothered with.

Magnesium is critical to the flower-initiation process in orchids. Instances of disappointing flower production in Cymbidium, for example, have been linked to low levels of magnesium in plant tissue. The recent work with 
Phalaenopsis 
you have read supports previous studies on Cymbidium and it is reasonable to presume that magnesium is a macroelement for most orchid genera. — Andy Easton 

Monthly Ribbon Judging
Reminder

You may have a new plant (less than 6 months) that has produced beautiful blooms that you would like to share with the other SGVOH members.  You may bring it and display it on our NEW ARRIVALS table.  It will not be judged, but you will receive a raffle ticket. 
Any member who has grown their plants longer than 6 months may exhibit and participate in the ribbon judging contest.

Want to learn more about orchids?  Why not participate in the judging?  You may pair up with another member and become a judge for the evening.   It is a great learning experience and an opportunity to get to know another member.  Try it and share the fun. 

Ribbon Chair
Linda Peterson

Members Plants

 Our members work very hard watering, fertilizing, and making sure their plants are bug free so we can view them at each meeting. Please do not touch or rub the plant leaves or flowers.  Be courteous, treat other peoples plants like you would like them to treat yours.

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Membership  Name Badge

Members may purchase a personally engraved SGVOH name badge for $15.00 each.
You may purchase them at any of our regular meetings.
Please contact:
Membership Chair, Dann Dunst

Members wearing their name tag at our regular meeting can obtain a special ticket for that evening’s Plant Opportunity Table.

How do I feed my orchid?


Experienced orchid growers fertilize their orchids weakly, weekly.

Orchids need to be fed regularly. Growers suggest using a "balanced" fertilizer such as 20-20-20 that includes all "necessary trace elements." Regardless of the fertilizer formulation you choose to use, it should contain little or no urea. If you are unsure of what fertilizer to use, you can generally use any fertilizer you would for your other container plants. Orchids will do far better with too little fertilizer than with too much. Many growers recommend the "weakly, weekly" approach, applying a dilute (1/4 strength) fertilizer each time they water, rather than applying a full dose once a month. Also, it is best not to fertilize a completely dry plant as the fertilizer can burn the dry roots. Water first then follow with fertilizer solution.

When Should I Repot?

 

When an orchid plant starts to grow over the edge of the pot, it is time to repot it!

 

Orchid plants need repotting for one or a combination of two main factors: Potting mix breaks down, often evidenced by dead roots, or the plant outgrowing the container. In the first case, a larger pot may not be required, simply replace the growing medium. In the second case, the plant may need dividing or may be shifted into a larger pot. Fresh media should always be used. A good general rule of thumb is to pot for the bottom of the plant, the root system, and not for the top, the foliage.

 

AOS Monthly Checklist
Click on Monthly Checklist below to see what to do each month. Very Informative!

Monthly Checklist
 

Insects? Other orchid questions?  Go to the AOS website: www.aos.org or
go directly to their videos: 
Click Here for the Videos Below

•Anthocyanin

•Boisduval Scale

•Divide or Repot?

•Keikis & Air Roots

•Leaftip Dieback

•Potting a Keiki

•Recognizing Mite Damage

•Recognizing Virus Symptoms, part 1

•Removing a Damaged Leaf

 

•Removing a Keiki

•Repotting a Cattleya

•Repotting a Healthy Orchid

•Repotting an Unhealthy Orchid

•Root Loss

•Selecting an Orchid

•Watering Orchids

•When to Repot?
 

•Where to Cut a Phalaenopsis Spike

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Are you interested in receiving the Bulletin by email INSTEAD of by ‘snail mail’?  If so, please email Jim Gomes at jim.gomes@att.net.  When I receive your email, I will no longer send a copy through the mail, but send a copy directly to your email address.  That way you will have fewer papers to throw away.

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There are other resources for information on orchids other than SGVOH and the Society Library.  Check these out: 

SGVOH has been a member of the American Orchid Society for a number of years, and discovered that they have much information on-line about growing orchids, including all the articles from past Orchid Magazines!!!  If you are a member, you can simply type in the topic that you wish information about (like pests, or brassia) and the list of articles will pop up – no need to go rummaging through your back issues trying to find out where in the world that great article went! 

If you have a DSL web connection and an AOS membership, you are set to discover answers to those orchid questions that have been bothering you.
 

Enjoy having some refreshments?   Bring some and receive a free ticket for a special drawing for the first plant from the POT.  The goodies you bring do not have to be sweet! 

 

We can all help with the clean-up after the meeting!

Did you know. . . ? You can check out a listing of the Society’s extensive Library of reference books, magazines, and videos on pages 16-22 of our Roster.  The best time to check out materials is before the main meeting begins at 8 PM.

HOME | About SGVOH | Advertisers | Auction Donors | Board/Committee Chairs | How to Join | Misc. Links | Monthly Program | Monthly Ribbon Awards Past Programs | Society News | Upcoming Events